One wonderful way to eat at Petra Shawarma is to work your way through all the starters and sides – the hummus, babaganoosh, cauli salad, fatoosh, garlic sauce, tabbouleh – each of them is a marvel. But if you order the Jordanian mandi, you’ll get some of them anyway, with rice intoxicated with raisins and cashews, and gloriously grilled meats, cooked fresh, tender to the bite and rich in spices. While Kingsland sifts and swirls around them, Dalal Omar and her family remain at its heart, cooking, as they like to say, “family food with love”.